I woke up Tuesday morning writhing in pain. I had THE. WORST. abdominal pains I have ever, ever had in all of my life. I began vomiting around 7:45AM. I made my best feeble attempt to get down to breakfast to grab a piece of toast to try to choke down my malaria medication. Thinking this was just the malaria kicking in full force, I tried to self soothe and remind myself that it’s just running its course. The Asst. PD caught wind of my vomiting and came to my room to check on me where I was strewn across the bathroom floor crying. She told me we were going back to the hospital immediately. I resisted, again, (I hate medics and I am just so stubborn) and she pretty much was like “tough luck.” About 2 minutes later the diarrhea began back up and then the sweats kicked in and I was ready to go. I continued to lie on the floor alternating ends on the toilet. They called for a car to take me to the Centre which took about an hour because traffic is horrendous (similar to Chicago rush hour, no joke, for those familiar). By that time, I felt disoriented and semi-conscious. I thought I was going to die. Obviously I live since I am writing this, but really, I was begging for the Universe to take me away. I felt miserable.
We got to the hospital where they wheeled me into a room (I could not walk by this point, I could hardly stand) and, again, took my blood pressure and temperature. Then I had to wait to see the doctor. I was in a waiting room with about five other people. I am crying, throwing up in a bag, pouring sweat – a real sight to behold. Finally I got in to see the doctor and he asked what was wrong. “ummm, well Dr. it appears I’m THROWING UP MY BRAINS!” I tried to communicate, but the Asst. PD had to help me. He had me lie down on the table and pressed on my stomach to which I yelled out in pain. He said, “ohh yes, you have a stomach infection.” I asked if I had malaria and he said “ohhh, no!” I told him the Dr. from last night said I had malaria and he looked at me like I was crazy – “It is too early for you to have malaria, plus you are taking your [malaria medication].” Awesome, so no malaria. At this point I didn’t care wtf I had…I just wanted to die and be done with it. They got me into a room hooked up to an IV. I was still throwing up and crying. Not soon enough they came to give me a shots in the butt – one for pain, one as an antibiotic – with an old school needle that was as big as my head. MISERABLE, I was. Luckily I fell asleep for a short time.
This continued for the next 10 hours or so. I would wake up every hour or so and start vomiting again (or have diarrhea) and crying out in pain. They’d make me tough it out for awhile and finally would do the shot thing again. It sucked. I was in a room with three other patients, the TVs were blaring, the lights were all on, and people were walking all around. Not much privacy and not much discern for the pain I was in. IT was very frustrating. The last things you want when you’re that sick are people around, noise, and light.
I finally stopped throwing up after about 13 hours. I had a couple bites of mashed potatoes for dinner and finished a bottle of water. I asked for another bottle of water to which they kindly informed me they only provide the first one for free – you have to get your own water after that. Luckily, I had Gifti, one of our amazing program staff, with me so she got me some water and apple juice. Seriously – you only get one water?!?
Our Head PD came to check on me and when she learned of the conditions she was pissed. I had not actually been tested for anything (no blood, urine, or fecal tests) and they had already misdiagnosed me once. She was not happy. She was on the phone with our international health insurance trying to figure out what to do. She wanted to transfer me to a different hospital in town and there was talk, for a brief time, of getting me air evacuated out of the country to France. I have not yet been to France, but am planning on going in a few weeks – I’d rather go on different terms. Mostly she was concerned and upset and trying to get stuff done. Not having many advocate for me as a child, I really appreciated it. Everything was slowing down by this point so we decided to let me sleep it off.
I slept off and on overnight getting up every few hours for a bathroom visit. It’s a process when you’re carting around that damn IV carrier with you everywhere you go. The power went off and some point so we had to sleep without the air conditioning and it was not the most comfortable of situations. By 9AM I finally stopped with the diarrhea. They kept pumping me with saline and antibiotics. The Asst. PD came to visit around noon and started to push for me to get discharged. They were hesitant, but I wanted to go. Plus, I missed the slave castles this morning in Cape Coast and really want to go for tomorrow’s excursions. I was awake more today and caught an episode of Friends on the TV (they have TV, but you only get one water) and watched a lot of the local version of MTV (when MTV was actually the music television channel). I even heard some Enya on a commercial and caught part of Beauty and the Beast (it looked like a holiday version?). The doctors, nurses, and my roommates (and all of their visitors) were all so very nice and sweet and concerned and loving. Nurse Elizabeth was my favorite – she was so maternal and sweet and just when she would look into my eyes I felt better. No matter where you are, humans can be truly wonderful people who care about you just because you are a living, breathing human. I love that genuine, real connection with people.
By 4PM (Wednesday) I was finally discharged. I came back to the hostel tonight to find we had no electricity or water. I have officially sat in my own filth for 3 days – I am so sexy. I had a few bites of rice for dinner (still no appetite) and am about to shower and get to bed so I can awake for our 5AM departure (Thursday) to Cape Coast to catch up with the group. I will have missed the tour of the Elmina Slave Fortress World Heritage Monument under UNESCO, but will see the Slave River and the Cape Coast Slave Fortress. There will also be a nice dinner with "cultural entertainment" tomorrow night. Friday morning we travel to Kakum National Park for the ethnobotantical trail and eco-tourism lecture. I am glad I get to go. What a journey.
Traveling sure is fun, but it definitely isn’t all rainbows and puppies, that’s for darn sure.
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